18.9.14

The Breast Sketch

It serves us so well.  And then it doesn’t.  It doesn’t obey, it finds new ways to remind us of what we are and what we are not.  We are young, we are attractive, we are mothers and grandmothers, we are human.

I sat upstairs in my home in South Lebanon.  It was warm so it must have been summer.  People were just waking up from their afternoon naps.  The sun was still up and Rabab’s three boys were outside making noise and fighting.  Billboards across the country sported images of women’s breasts substituted by watermelons, peaches, cherries.  Advocating self exams.

Rabab came up to talk.  Most people avoid my apartment, they know it is a place where I can go to escape whatever is going on down below.  To be free of the need for interpreters and just look through my old stuff, the things that have been left there over time by me and my children.  I go through these things when I am there and contemplate a lot of things.  The material world, the time we’ve spent there, the time I want to spend there in my old age and the place I am headed after death and ressurrection.

I remember one winter and it was very cold.  I was still drinking back then.  I’d go upstairs and the brothers would come up and we’d drink.  Wine and Arak.  We’d laugh so loud there could be no doubt in those below that we were not in control.  That day I’d taken the kids to the graveyard and we’d messed around by the graves scaring each other, some of the graves collapsing, some of them covered by photos in glass boxes.  We came home and my eldest was there doing her work for university.  The propane heater barely kept the frigid room warm even though all the doors that could be closedd were closed in order to heat the smallest area possible. 

I poured a gin and some coke and settled in for a nice evening.  The kids went to bed and by then I’d had another gin or two.  I went to bed nice and cozy with my bedroom door open and my son out on the couch, one daughter with me and the other secluded in the middle room. 

I drifted deep into sleep…..when the visitor showed up.  He’d been in my dreams before…just a shadow. Once he took me to see my ancestors.  The kids still tease me about that night journey.  Porter Hopkins they say, Porter Hopkins, one eighth Cherokee as all white people do.  There are no white ancestors so we have to make up some Injun ones.  Common practice where I come from in Arizona.

In the dream I saw an enormous wave closing down on me.  Inside of it were several children being tossed around by the force of the tidal surge.  The visitor said, “Save them.  They are going to die.”  I woke up with such a start that my heart was going over 150 beats a minute.  Not my normal but I woke up and there was my son standing at the door saying his stomach was upset and then he vomited.  I got up and cleaned him up, cleaned up the floor but my heart still beat out of control.  I put him to bed in my bed and went to the kitchen to try to get control of my heart that was easily doing 175 by then.  It just wouldn’t stop and I thought of the disrespect at the graveyard that day where we’d fooled around to scare each other.  Could that be the cause of my distress? I thought about the gin and Allah punishing me for my indiscretion.  I’d rather not believe that.

I heard my son get up again and moan a bit.  He was stumbling out the door and I grabbed him to get him to the toilet.  He didn’t make it though and covered the floor.  I cleaned him up again and he was so lethargic.  My heart completely wildly out of control.  The guilt just overwhelmed me for neglecting my children, teaching them wrong instead of right.

I returned to the bathroom and began to clean the mess.  I knew something wasn’t right and knelt on my hands and knees and began sobbing.  Sobbing for the sins, sobbing for the indecencies and the destruction caused by my chemical abuse.  Just sobbing out loud.

My eldest came out of her room and asked me “Mom, what’s the matter?”  She seemed just fine.  I told her, “go get your grandmother, something isn’t right”.  I didn’t want to disturb her at 3 in the morning but was helpless to solve the problem. Just helpless and losing control.  Perhaps I was going insane?

Em Melhem came charging up the stairs and threw open the door.  She said only one word and it might has well been death.  GAZ.  Propane.  She threw open the windows and doors to air out the salon and bedroom where my youngest two children still slept and would have slept for an ever if not for the visitor in my dream who said, “Save them.”

It was years later and Rabab came in and we sat across from each other in the kitchen.  She already had a left mastectomy.  Her hair was back and she was looking good.  It was over.  She was a survivor. We both were.  I had already apologized to her for my indiscretions of years before when she was left to worry down below while her husband and his brothers and I got drunk and laughed late into the nights. Apologized for making her feel uptight, for being a good muslim, for being the kind of person who could hold her tongue.

She wanted to talk to me about an implant.  It was heavy on her mind and I suppose she felt a little guilty wanting to look like everyone else, to stop stuffing her bra or wearing baggy clothes.  I am not sure but I imagine it is the same for all people who have an amputation of a body part.  They miss the normalcy of that.

I told her sure, they can take skin from your belly, your back.  They can tattoo you some nipples, they can do wonders “nowadays”. 

Suddenly, she asked me to see her.  To look.  I said sure.  I’m a nurse, I do that all the time.

Rabab lifted her top to show me what was left.  I swallowed so very hard.  I was unprepared, I was honored and then I was simply devastated.  Just devastated for Rabab.  I didn’t cry though.  I waited until she left and then called Pat Porter, my brother’s wife in America who had already had implants, already been there, done that and was doing fine.  I cried to her and could not contain my feelings.  She offered advice that I cannot remember now and it doesn’t matter.  There is no road map as they say for such things.  There are just no easy answers.

17.9.14

Hotel Dieu, Part II

I arrived to Beirut International that evening September 9.2013 and as I sat and watched the official butting out one cigarette after another, he took out some paper and in general took his own sweet time attending to whatever it was about my passport that made immigration pull me into that office. It was really hot and I was so so tired. He avoided looking me in the eye and other young officials went back and forth out of the office seemingly doing very important things but I was the only passenger in the terminal. The only one.

After what seemed to be an hour or more, he would ask me questions about my visit and I was on the verge of tears already, standing in line to get into the baggage claim area where you go through the standard glass enclosed cubicles to have things stamped vigorously by bored and unsympathetic young men in khaki. I always wonder why they are so unhappy or at least appear to be. Little did I know how many unhappy officials I would be meeting in the coming days. One man after another clothed in every shade of gray to khaki to brown with expressionless faces and smirks.

Finally another official entered the office and the boss was telling me to go with him to the baggage claim. At last I would be allowed to leave, to get to Hotel Dieu and see dear Rabab who probably had anything but a few minutes to a few days left in her life. This I knew and was on borrowed time already as we all are but in her case, the borrowed time was finite and there were no bargains left to be had on her behalf. As a nurse, these things we know are non negotiable.

By the time I was sent to get my bags, they were already in the abandoned pile in a room near the exit. I went to the door and was thankful that my two big suitcases were right in the middle. The official just stood there and let me pull both bags by myself. A grandmother tired from a long journey and he just let me struggle and instead of taking me to customs, he indicated we had to go down to an office. He said it would be alright, I would be able to leave the airport as soon as they cleared me from immigration.

I went into his office and left my heavy suitcases outside the door. He sat across from me and began to ask the same questions I had already answered in the other office. Why are you here? How long are you staying? The usual.

I thought to myself…well obviously, this is about Syria. In early September 2013, Obama was planning to attack Syria for using chemical weapons. Now we know that wasn’t true at all but I always knew it was a lie. It never made any sense. But I comforted myself with the thought that the Lebanese were just being very careful about who was entering the country that week. I could be anyone for all they know, a spy, a terrorist, a courier…who knows really.

The official flipped back and forth through my passport. He’d stop on one thing and go back to another. In total I’d been back to Lebanon 4 times since the war and evacuation in 2006.

The official called one of his peers in and his was the first real friendly face I’d seen all night. He was a big man, bald and he obviously felt for my misery. I kept telling them I had to get to Rabab and I would cry and they would offer tissues. The two of them flipped back and forth and back and forth in my passport. They asked me again why I was there and if I’d been living in Lebanon. I then remembered the Bahar. The Beach. Lebanon’s own Normandy Landing in reverse. We left in 2006 in a mass exodus…thousands and thousands of people shuttled to Naval vessels and ocean liners in order to escape the heavy bombardment. During the evacuation, we left the country on an amphibious from the beach, on to the USS Trenton and then on to Cargo planes times two to Ramstein and then on to Newark.

I also remembered my car accident on the autostrat in a Beirut suburb in 2004. I didn’t reveal that one fearing that was why I was being investigated. A car accident that was not really a car accident but a suicide attempt: my own. I wasn’t successful obviously. But it wandered around in my mind that I was finally going to be punished for that act that sent a couple other people to a hospital and most likely ended up with a garbage truck driver with a stiff fine. And me with broken ribs, sternum and a pneumothorax.

Finally the big man asked, if I had gone out in 2006 on the “Bahar”. I indicated I had and he looked thoroughly enlightened. He explained that apparently a lot of people had the same problem as I did and had problems when returning to Lebanon for a visit. They evacuated and the US Embassy never informed immigration that we’d left the country. I was so relieved and they said they would call the judge and I would be released just as soon as they could get me cleared. It would finally be over and I could maybe get some sleep in my apartment in Aramoun before going to check on Rabab in the morning which by now was just a few hours away.

I waited and waited and made small talk with the first official. With his broken English and my broken Arabic we were able to chat and he seemed more relaxed, more tolerant of the midnight burden I was providing. Keeping him from the quintessential security guard type nap, head on chest, police cap tilted down over the eyes. I was worried about Rabab’s brother Ahmad who must be outside the airport waiting for me to arrive. I begged the guard to call him and let him know I was there but he said he couldn’t do that. I pleaded and pleaded and they relented and let me call Ahmad outside to let him know there was a problem about the evacuation.

Finally the big guy came back and grabbed one of my suitcases and the other one took the second leaving me with just my carry on. We exited the airport but through another door, the one that no one tells you about. The car was waiting just outside already and I realized that the big guy must have pulled it around to pick us up. I asked where we were headed and they told me that they couldn’t get hold of the judge and so they were taking me all the way to the immigration office itself. I didn’t question that and slid into the back seat of an old compact car. In Lebanon, officials and police don’t always have an official car, they use their own. This wasn’t a surprise. I knew that already from my car “accident”. That cop that accompanied me to one hospital (I left AMA to try to escape) and eyed me like he knew there was something more to my little accident. I had to drive that cop to the police station myself in order to answer my charges that day in 2004, his eye on me the whole time, his knowledgeable eye. The awful eye that cops have when they know a person isn’t being quite honest.

…to be continued


10.9.14

Hotel Dieu


Today makes one year to the day. 

I arrived at Beirut via Rafik Hariri International. It was a late flight and I was on my way to tend to my sister in law Rabab who was in Hotel Dieu (God Hotel) in Beirut. 

She had metastatic breast cancer. It had spread to her brain, her bones and her liver. I had known for a year that she was terminal but she was not told. It is common in other cultures to fear telling the person about their situation. I always believed though that somewhere inside her heart, she knew the end of her life was near.

She'd already had rods put in her neck because the cancer had invaded her vertebrae. She suffered excruciating pain during that time...must have lasted over a year. She couldn't even lift herself out of bed sometimes and her personality started changing.

Our Rabab who was the life of the party so to speak...a muslim party with a devout muslim looks more like her making your favorite dish and calling you over for a shin dig involving jokes (mostly at her expense...we always liked teasing her to try to ruffle her extraordinarily dignified character), involving the kids playing and just sitting in her presence enjoying hospitality from the heart.

She began to feel a bit more angry at life. But Rabab's anger wasn't like anyone I have ever known as a registered nurse. It was highly controlled, and mostly she worried about her three young boys. This was what truly bothered her the most. The idea that they would be left without her to guide them in life, in their Islam, in the world so full of challenges and hardships and joys.

I was not aware by the time I boarded the plane in Tucson on my way to Beirut that the cancer had spread to her brain. At that time, I was only told about her liver and knew that was the call I had to attend to. The call I had to follow.

I was not a good friend to Rabab in the many months of her disease process. Not at all. I will never claim I was her support, her confidante or even a good advisor in the years before her death. All I know is that she loved me and if she could, she would go to the end of the earth to bring me whatever I asked for and as an RN I only hoped to get there to help with her death because I knew she was dying, I knew that the death process is best managed with friends by your side, children outside playing in the yard and wanted desperately to get her out of a hospital and into her father's home in the south of Lebanon. I knew that it might not turn out that way if I just sat around in the US and watched from afar. I believed that I had something to do there but in the end I benefitted far more from my attendance. Far more.

I reached Beirut at about 8 in the evening. It was a slow day at the airport, I think it was a Monday and I'd been en route far too long already. I knew she'd had her liver tapped for fluid and with that goes internal bleeding because the liver is failing.

I handed my passport to the immigration clerk and his face changed. He said to me, "one moment please". He turned his computer off and went into the glass office where I could see another traveler conversing with the immigration head at the airport.

He reminded me of Kamal Ataturk. All such foreign officials in the Middle East seem to have sprung from the loins of that infamous secularist who marched thousands of Armenians to their deaths in the 20th century. That portrait (Ataturk)decorates the walls of every Turkish police station, most of the restaurants, the majority of hotel lobbies and no doubt people's the nightmares of the Turkish population night to night. I met that portrait in a Turkish police station outside of the hidden cities of Cappadoccia and it still brings me to tears. He looks like a Vampire and perhaps he was.

After a brief conversation between the two officials, I was told to enter the glass office and sat on the flea bitten couch in front of the chief's desk. There was a young woman and she was trying to explain something about her passport. My Arabic is limited but what I gathered was hers was expired but it was Lebanese and she was given a free pass to leave but would have to go to the immigration to fix the matter before she would be allowed to leave the country again.


II

No one is more surprised than me. 

There he is with his Qibla. I am fixated on the girl next to him, she couldn't be more than 18. She is adjusting her head cover, fixing it the way hijabi girls do when they are interested. Pushing hair in while pulling it out, eyes up and then down again, no one noticing the way their lithe bodies twist toward the object of their affection.

There is clapping and a bride and groom. The most beautiful bride a person could imagine. Her groom sits attentively near and love is revealed in its small moments. Ruths rule the castles of other people.

It is so.

I watch it over and over, stop, replay. A child wanders in and out of the frame, belongs to no one. The young woman cannot resist another look over and another. The cameras of heaven between Qibla and Qibla.

The two wests, the two easts under the pleasant lights . Tulsa. The way cities look from 35,000 like giant lava flows. The world is ancient.

And there she is, Rabab. Her heart beating inside the camera, her steady hand is on the wheel, and pushes him away and toward the person who with steady hand and that awful eye, one terrible eye and the other shut, packages memories.

How many angels were there? Two? Seventy-two?

She enters from the right side of his Qibla. Did she know I'd be watching her now six years ahead? How many treatments had been completed? In the beginning she used to wear ice caps but by the time I reached her after six days of one person after another entering Adlieh, entering Babdaat, it was clear that ice had not worked to prevent the theft of hair, the stolen color of her skin.

He is throbbing and glowing. His mind awash with houris. Taking his risik* before its time, playing the part of Sultan to his crew. The man of the hour and a child wanders into the frame, belongs to no one. The girl straightens her head cover, pushes hair in in order to pull some out. It is so. Take a walk on the Wild Side.

And Rabab turns him Qibla-ward, she is there forever looking at me saying: wake up.